A while ago, in April, I went abroad for the first time in ten years. Not on a family holiday, but on a very special bloggers' weekend: Paris Sew Social. Fourteen European sewing bloggers met up and had a lovely weekend in Paris. Needless to say it was fabulous, meeting those ladies in real life, talking endlessly about sewing, fabrics, pattern design and blogging... We really became friends overnight! Not only was the weekend amazing, the goodie bag was to die for as well: loads and loads of patterns and fabric! One I really adored was a black and white polk-a-dot kind of knit from Art Gallery Fabrics, sponsored by Telaria. I made myself a pencil skirt with it, a perfect addition to my mainly black wardrobe, but had some treasured scraps left. And that's where the Union St Tee comes in!
The Union St Tee by Hey June Patterns, which I already sewed up in an up-cycled and decorated version here, is a fabulous canvas for all sorts of creative sewing and you'll be seeing much more of that in the coming days here on the blog. So, to get back to my polk-a-dot scraps: I decided to make shoulder inserts in the Union St Tee with them. Take a look at the tutorial below!
- All requirements for the Union St Tee
- Extra knit fabric scraps for the inserts, preferably the same quality as your main fabric
- Paper, markers and ruler.
1. Print and tape the pattern. Since the pattern has a 1/4" seam allowance included, mark the line of the seam allowance on your pattern piece at the shoulder area where you want to create the colourblocking. This gives you better insight in how big your insert will actually be once the garment is sewn. I marked this with the green marker. Then, draw a line where you want your insert to begin, the blue line.
2. Trace the shape of your insert from the pattern piece, so without seam allowance. Since this is quite an abstract shape, make sure you mark which side is up and which is the side of the neckline or armhole. Then, add a new seam allowance of 1/4" all around the shape.
3. Draw 1/4" seam allowance at the cut line on the original pattern piece as well, the red line. Cut off (or fold over) your pattern piece along that red line.
4. Repeat for the back bodice. Again, clearly mark your insert pattern piece!
5. You could just use these pieces, but I didn't want a shoulder seam in the insert. If you'd like to use another contrast colour for the back piece then you're done drafting, but I want to remove the shoulder seam. So, I cut off the seam allowance on the shoulder seam of the insert pattern piece. Since the original pattern pieces are both the same half of the body, I mirrored the back insert pattern piece by flipping the pattern over and tracing the lines onto the back side of the paper.
6. Tape the two insert pieces together at the shoulder seam.
7. Cut two mirrored insert pieces from your accent fabric. Mark the place where front insert meets back insert on the pattern piece with a small notch or mark, so that you know where to line up the sleeves later on. Cut the rest of the tee according to instructions, using your chopped off bodice pieces.
8. Place the insert on top of the front bodice, shoulder seams aligned, right sides together. Make sure the neckline side of the insert is indeed at the neckline side of the bodice, not on the armhole side. Stitch the two part together with a 1/4" seam allowance. Repeat for the other front shoulder. Then, repeat for the back shoulders.
9. Continue to sew according to the instructions, making sure when pinning the sleeves to the bodice, you use the notch that marks the original shoulder seam on the insert, not the seam where insert meets bodice.
And you're done! Do you like to make changes or embellish basic patterns? I'd love to see what you're up to. Let me know here in the comments or via social media! Besides on my blog, you can find me at my Facebook page, on Instagram and Twitter.
Go get the Union St Tee pattern now and be sure to tag us on instagram to show us what you made! @UpCraftClub #unionsttee