Written by Vanessa of East & Eden
Looking for a cute layering jacket for fall for your little one? How about a hacked Lakeshore Crop? Riding jackets are all the rage right now. I love the look of the Lakeshore Crop, but I wanted to make my daughter something a little longer to cover her bum for the cooler fall weather. The Lakeshore crop has great "bones" and with a few modifications, you can turn it into this fabulous, on-trend, high-low hem riding jacket.
Features of this modification include: An extended bodice length
... And extended button cuffs
About the Base Pattern:
The Lakeshore Crop, in sizes 18M - 8Y, is a fabulous pattern designed by Jessica Bustos of Lil Luxe Collection. The pattern is drafted professionally, pieces together easily and sews up fairly quickly. Its cropped style makes it perfect for layering over dresses or pants. It is a great pattern for transition seasons and cool evenings. It can be dressed up or down. It really is a darling staple piece for any little girl's wardrobe. Now let's get into the modifications ...
Pattern Piece Alterations
Print, tape and cut out the Lakeshore Crop pattern pieces. We will use all of the original pattern pieces except the Pleated Hem piece. To add length to the body of the jacket, we need to add length to the Bodice Front and Bodice Back pieces. I added 4" to the bottom of each piece for the size 7 jacket. You may need to add more or less depending on the size you are making.
To make the cuff a button cuff instead of a pleated cuff, we need to extend the cuff piece. I added 2" to the width for size 7. You will only cut 2 of the cuff piece ON FOLD. Do not cut according to the Sleeve Cuff B directions.
We need to create the final pattern piece from scratch. This piece is for the high-low hem peplum to finish the bottom of the jacket. Use a large piece of drafting paper, or tape together a few pieces of computer paper like I did. This is the shape we need to create:
The long, straight edge is the center of the back of our peplum. For the size 7, I made this 10.5" long.
The top of this pattern piece should be about a quarter of a large circle shape. The circle shape is what gives the riding jacket a nice flare out. the distance of this curve should be the width of the Bodice Front + the width of the Bodice Back. Use a pencil when drawing this line, as you may need to erase. I drew it 3 times until I liked the shape of it. Next, round the inner curve of your peplum skirt. I started the length at about 4" for the size 7. Now connect this inner curve to the straight edge with a long, sloping curve. Again, use pencil as you may need to erase. the difference in the 4" and 10.5" sides give us the high-low hem.
We're making progress! Here are your final pattern pieces:
Sewing the Jacket
Assemble the bodice according to the "Bodice Assembly" directions in the Lakeshore Crop pattern. Next, sew your peplum pieces, right sides together along the bottom curve. Turn right side out and press. Mark the center of the unfinished top edge of the peplum piece.
Sandwich the peplum piece in between the lining and outer of the assembled bodice pieces (following the directions in the Lakeshore Crop pattern, just with our peplum piece instead of the Pleated Ruffle piece). Begin pinning the peplum in place from outside toward the center back of the jacket. The peplum will be wider than the bodice base.
Create the reverse box pleat per the directions in the pattern, making sure your center mark is at the center of your box pleat. The box pleat will "eat up" the extra peplum width. Pin pleat in place. Sew and turn following the direction in the original pattern.
Sewing the Cuffs
Finish both short edges of the cuff piece (serge or zig-zag). Turn one of the long edges of the cuff up 1/4" and press. Turn it 1/4" again, press and topstitch.
Fold in each of the finished short edges by 1". Press. Fold again by 1", press and topstitch.
Sew the sleeves together per the pattern instructions. Turn sleeve right side out and fold in half along stitch line. Take one of your prepared cuff pieces and fold the 1" finished seam over the midline of the sleeve. Match up the raw edges of the cuff and sleeve, working around the circle opening and overlapping the other 1" finished seam over the first you lined up. Pin, sew and finish the seam allowance. Repeat for the other sleeve, but start the overlap on the other side of the sleeve, so you create one left and one right sleeve.
Insert the sleeves according to the Lakeshore Crop pattern instructions. Add buttons or snaps and you're all set!
Get your own copy of the Lakeshore Crop pattern! We would love to see your Lakeshore Crops and Lakeshore Crop Hacks! Tag us on instragram @upcraftclub and @eastandeden with the hashtag #lakeshorecrop or #lakeshorecrophack to show off your creations.