Fall has finally brought some fresh air to drive away what has been a long extended summer, and my thoughts have been turning to baking. It's not often that my two favorite hobbies of cooking and sewing get to coincide, but with visions of strudel and kolaches and roasted pumpkins dancing in my head, a new apron from this fun vintage curtain panel seemed a natural sewing project. As I scoured my own Pinterest boards for apron inspiration in creating an apron pattern, it occurred to me that apron patterns are really just all variations on either a skirt or a dress. Adding a few rectangles and taking away some other pieces, it's very straightforward to make an apron from a skirt pattern.
The base for this tutorial is So Sew Easy's Show Some Flare Skirt. The original skirt is a dartless A-line skirt with back zipper and some cute angled pockets just dying to be featured in an apron. This is the perfect skirt for a beginner, and the simplicity of the pattern makes it a fantastic base for pattern hacks like this one.
Want to make your own apron from the Show Some Flare Skirt? Let's get started.
You will need:
- Show Some Flare Skirt sewing pattern
- lightweight natural fiber fabric such as voile, linen, or vintage curtains
- pocket lining
- Marking pen
- 2 yards 1/4" double fold bias tape
- lightweight fusible interfacing (optional)*
- 13" square of muslin
- one 1" D ring or similar rectangular ring
- one 1" slide adjuster
- glue stick or 1/4" fusible web tape such as Steam a Seam II (optional)
- Tube turner or another tool for turning a tube right side out
*Use interfacing as indicated in the directions if your fabric is drapey and prone to wrinkling.
- Print out the pattern's skirt piece, front waistband, and pocket pieces. Cut out all of these pieces from your apron fabric and the pocket lining from the pocket lining fabric. Cut 1 piece of interfacing from the front waistband pattern if using. Fuse to one of the waistband pieces. Mark the center of the front waistband and skirt.
- To create the side panels, measure in from the skirt piece's side 6" in towards CF (center front) down the entire length of the front piece. Cut along this line. Set aside the CF side of the full pattern piece and cut 2 pieces out of apron fabric from the new piece you created. Make sure to cut the notches from the pattern into the side panels.
- You will also need to cut:
|Apron Piece:||Size:||Fabric:||Interfacing (if needed):|
|Bib||12" X12 3/4"||1 from apron fabric, 1 from muslin|
|Neck loop||2" X 2 1/2"||cut 1 from apron fabric||cut 1 equal to the length and 1/2 the width|
|Waist ties||2 1/4"X 25"||cut 4 from apron fabric||cut 2|
|Neck tie||2" X 26"||cut 1 from apron fabric||cut 1 equal to the length and 1/2 the width|
4. Fuse the interfacing to 2 of the waist ties, the neck loop, and the neck tie. Mark the center of the bottom of the bib pieces.
- Sew the pockets per the pattern directions. Placing right sides together (RST) match the side notches of the side panels and the front skirt. Sew the side seams. Finish the seams. Open the bias tape and place it RST with the raw edges of the side panels. Sew the bias tape to the side panels. Fold the bias tape completely to the inside of the side panel, then edgestitch the bias tape in place. Hem the bottom of the apron skirt.
- Fold the neck loop RST and sew down the long side and one short side. Repeat for the neck tie. Turn both pieces right sides (RSO) out using a tube turner or your favorite method or tool.
- Place the muslin and the bib piece RST. Make a mark 3/4" from either side of the top edge.
- Thread the neck loop through the rectangular ring so that it is folded in half. Topstitch the neck loop as close to the ring as possible (a zipper foot is useful here).
- Sandwich the neck loop/ring between muslin and the bib piece at one of the top marks. The raw edge of the loop will face the raw edge of the bib pieces. Sew around the sides and top of the bib, leaving a 1" gap open from the other mark towards the center of the bib. Turn the bib RSO, then press. Press the raw edge of the gap to the inside of the bib.
- Thread the finished end of the neck tie through the slide adjuster.
- Then thread the raw end of the neck tie through the rectangular ring.
- Fold back the finished end of the neck tie to the wrong side of the neck tie and topstitch the end close to the slide adjuster.
- Thread the raw end of the neck tie through the back side of the slide adjuster. Stuff the raw end of the neck tie into the hole at the top of the bib and pin in place. Edgestitch around the sides and top of the bib, then sew another row of topstitching 3/8" from the edge of the bib. Baste the raw edges of the bib together.
- Sew a short side of the waist ties to either side of the waistband pieces. You will have 2 complete waistband sections of 3 smaller sections.
- Matching the centers, sew the bib to one of the waistbands with a 3/8" seam allowance. Also sew the waistband to the top of the skirt assembly also with a 3/8" seam allowance.
- Roll the skirt and the bib up towards the right side of the waistband. They will be bulky, but the idea is that they should be rolled up so that they fit inside the boundaries of the waistband.
- Place the RST of the second waistband assembly with the waistband with the rolled up skirt and bib. The rolled pieces will be sandwiched between the waistbands. Pin as necessary. Sew around the perimeter of the waistbands with a 3/8" seam allowance, leaving a gap a few inches long at the top and bottom of the waistband in the rolled up areas. Sew as far as you can in the rolled areas. When you finish, it will look like this:
- Pull the skirt and bib through the openings, then turn the ties RSO through the openings with the tube turner, if you like. Press the waistbands/ties. Fold the raw edges of the waistband so that they cover the seams on the wrong side of the apron. Dab a glue stick or apply 1/4" fusible web to the apron on the seam allowances of the openings. Press to seal the openings with your iron to set the glue.
- Edgestitch around the perimeter of the waistband and ties to close up the gaps. Run a second row of topstitching 3/8" from the edge around the perimeter of the waistband and ties, then one row down the middle of the ties.
Adjust the neck tie length as you need to by moving the slider, then enjoy wearing your new apron!